Big Wednesday (at Moonee)

Jan-Michael Vincent staggers across the beach, hungover, bleary eyed, appropriates a board from from one of the local surfers. He can barely walk but once in the water he is one with the board. He stands to ride and his disorientation, his clumsy attempts to remain upright have remained on the beach. His friends watch as he carves the wave and becomes the surfer all locals respect and revere. If you're lucky there may still be a copy of this film tucked away in a dark corner in a truckstop near you.

This was quite a big day at Moonee. The wind was blowing off shore and the swell was up. Have a look in the top right corner of the first image. There is a tiny speck. Think almost bacterium sized. That's a body surfer. I didn't see a person in the water while I was shooting at the beach. I noticed the speck when I started editing the images. I nearly became a speck in the water myself at one point when a surprisingly big set roared across the rock platform.

The three images are one wave traveling by me standing on the rocks.